Delectable kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and tourists equally praising its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, UNESCO designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a prestigious roster of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it enters a global network of more than four hundred cities across over 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The honor "demonstrates its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and dynamic food ecosystem," as noted by a representative from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of 70 global destinations around the world.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The recognition for this venerable city arrives as hardly a shock to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, chaotic, and diverse city – the capital of India's most populous state – is now in the limelight for what has perennially characterized its heart: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, the method of preparation' is a continued discussion from waking up until going to bed in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and raised to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of food experimentation, blending Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was created to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only showcases local ingredients but also gives the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on many street corners, there are little shops and carts – lesser-known gems that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a simple joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and demanding. The cook whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of though express concern that their children are unwilling to take up the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's immense food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is hoped, will motivate more people worldwide to explore these tales and travel to the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.